It's not often we eat at a restaurant and decide we simply must return to try other dishes as soon as possible. W.A. Frost, a St. Paul, Minn. favorite for the past 33 years, with its century-old tin ceilings and ornate oriental rugs, serves up some of the most creative and flavorful dishes in St. Paul.Entering the building for the first time immediately put us at ease with the dim lighting, the fireplace roaring, and the gorgeous view of the restaurant's outdoor patio. At lunch, patrons dine in fairly casual dress; jeans are acceptable. Dinner proves to be a bit more elegant, but with few people dressed in full suits. W.A. Frost offers a fine selection of international cheeses. We recommend sampling two firm and nutty choices - Upland Farm's Pleasant Ridge Reserve from Dodgeville, Wisconsin and Thoten, created at family farms local to the Minneapolis area. If you prefer a soft cheese, Pont L’Évêque A.O.C from Normandy is most notable with a very bitter, yet full flavored taste and soft texture perfect for spreading on a light cracker.
The Grilled Rare Ahi Tuna Salad is served in a perfect lunch portion. The tuna is superbly prepared with outstanding flavor, seared just enough to leave the center a deep red. The red pepper foam and balsamic reduction compliments the dish. Also recommended, the Goat Cheese Risotto Cake Napoleon is a pleasant surprise. Based on the ingredients, you might expect a bowl full of risotto, topped with a little spinach and tomatoes. What is served is an elegantly presented mini-cake of risotto and goat cheese. Though the tang of the goat cheese is quite subdued, the onion cream sauce is more than enough flavor for the risotto.
The Ahi Tuna Three Ways is a light, flavorful way to start a three-course dinner. We recommend each guest ordering their own dish. Although listed on the menu as a shared plate, and explained by the server as being perfect to split among 2-3 people, the portion size is far too small for sharing . A lovely presentation of three styles of rare and raw tuna, each style equates to one spoonful of tuna. Barely enough to satisfy one person, this starter plate is definitely not enough for two. The portion size is the only disappointing aspect to this dish, however. Tuna marinated in mustard and capers is the highlight of the three selections. The saltiness of the capers is a nice contrast to the cool tuna chunks. A second selection slightly overtakes the tuna flavor with sweet green apple marmalade. Though we would prefer the tuna to shine through more, the flavor is outstanding and would be perfect if showcased as an apple dish.
For fish lovers, the Pan Roasted Bass, served with fresh water chestnuts and mint with apple froth, features a crunchy water chestnut texture, giving the fish a little crunch. Unfortunately, the crust on top of the fish is difficult to cut through. The bass underneath falls apart with a light touch so it is difficult to get a fork full of both the crust and the fish.
With excellent flavor, the Braised Cafe Sirloin has the consistency of a roast - so tender it just falls apart. Note that the braised cut of beef is definitely not a steak. No knife needed. Garlic-potato puree and preserved meyer lemon gremolata are fabulous, creating a complete meal. Wine lovers will enjoy pairing this entree with a glass of Valpolicella, Corteforte "Ripassato Classico Superiore". Low in tannin, this wine has a lot of flavor.
For lunch, “mini” size portions of the Peanut Butter and Chocolate Layered Mousse and the Classic Crème Brûlée are sweet and satisfying without being too heavy for midday. The full size version of chocolate mousse does not showcase the mini’s well-balanced proportion of flavors. However, the larger version comes with a scoop of to-die-for house-made curry caramel ice cream. W.A. Frost also offers small chocolate candies on their dessert menu. This tiny treat is great for anyone looking for a satisfying sweet flavor after a long flavorful meal. For the dessert lover, this is something to order along with another sweet treat, but for the dieter, it is a pleasurable indulgence that is only about an inch big. A pattern printed on the candy signifies the dessert name, "The Leopard".
Both visits, we found the service outstanding, attentive but not overbearing. Overall, W.A. Frost satisfies our need for creative, well-cooked, and perfectly presented cuisine. We recommend calling ahead for reservations. Be sure to request a table by the fireplace for a special evening.
Expect lunch for two people to run about $50 with tip, and close to $150 for a three-course dinner with drinks.
W.A. Frost
374 Selby Avenue
St Paul, Minn. 55102
www.wafrost.com
651.224.5715 | map
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